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PostPosted: Fri Feb 09, 2007 9:19 pm 
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Location: Richmond, TX
The next time there is a fly tying event near you i would strongly recomend going. I participated in a fly tying show last weekend and I learned more there in one day than I ever thought possible. The tyers are there demonstrating their skills and are very willing to help you out with any questions you have.

Thanks to all those who stoped by my table to say hi, i had a fantastic time and it has greatly motivated me in my tying.

I was nice to meet you steve, pm me if you have questions about anything at all.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 11, 2007 10:58 pm 
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The best way I have found to strip feathers or peacock herl is by using an eraser and a small foam pad. If you use your finger nail to make your quills it takes some time to get it right so that it will not curl up on you. If you simply place a feather on a piece of foam and rub it with an eraser the fibers come right off leaving you with a perfectly strait quill. This also works very well for stiping peacock herl. If you just pull the feather fibers off it will some times strip off some of the quill (like if you were to pull the bark off a wet tree branch). This tip makes it easy to get those great looking quills for dry fly bodies or the perfect antennas for your bugs and shrimp patterns. It also works well on preparing your feather for palmering your dry or wet flies.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 12, 2007 10:30 pm 
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Dont use your good pair of sissors to cut off the excess wire ribbing on your flies... Use an old pair or just wiggle the wire back and forth untill it breaks. Nothing dulls a pair of sissors quite like cutting threw metal..


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 15, 2007 12:13 am 
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If you are tying with a thin thread, like a 6/0, 8/0 or a light denier, dont waist time cutting the taged end off when you start putting your thread on the bare shank. Just pull on the tag firmly and snap it off.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 18, 2007 9:53 pm 
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on the topic of snaping off materials. If you are tying with viynal ribbing or what I like to use most is hollow tubing from larva lace, you can make a few snug wraps around the ribbing to bind it down to form a small kink in the ribbing, which acts as a breaking point. And instead of cutting the ribbing off with your scissors that leaves you with a big tag to cover up with thread. You can pull on the remaining amount, snaping it off at the breaking point you created, then make a few more wraps over it to keep it from unraveling before tying off. This gives you a head with much less bulk and makes for a more proportional fly body.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 20, 2007 11:54 pm 
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Over the past few weeks Iv talked to alot of other tyers who sturgle to tie in tail fibers and get them to consistently come out uniform and at the correct angle. So i decided to do a post on this.

Start by tying in the fibers with a few loose wraps and then sliding them down to the proper length. You can use a spare hook to gauge the length. Then make a few more wraps toward the end of the shank. When you get to this point you can spread the tail fibers out by passing the thread from underneath and comming up in the middle of the two fibers. Its important to go From the bottom in a upward motion passing the thread between the fibers. If you come from the top and go downward you will not get the tail fibers to spread out, they will just bunch up... One or two wraps between the fibers is all that is needed (make your wraps on only one side of the hook shank, switching sides as you would if you were to make a figure eight wraps will bunch the fibers back up). If the tail consists of three fibers make one pass threw the middle of two of the fibers on one side, then make anouther pass on the same side of the hook shank on the otherside of the middle fiber to spread out the third fiber. Its kind of hard to discribe this in words so i constructed a picture to go along with, sorry if it sounds confusing... Just try it out at the bench and see if you can get it to work. After you get the hang of this you will no longer need to make a small thread ball or a dubbing ball to help spread out the tails, and you can cosistently nail the same angle every time.

Image


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 4:07 am 
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Location: Fairview, TX
Nice photo sequence, Alan! I wish the tails on my Tricos looked that good.

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Fish Friendly - Life's too short not to enjoy every minute on the river.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 23, 2007 10:54 pm 
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Location: Richmond, TX
If you have a package of chenille or estaz that does not have the cardboard piece that acts as a spool, its simply just chenille and estaz in a bag. I often find it annoying to have to open the package every time I want to use it.. To solve this, I threaded the estaz threw the hole that is punched on the top of the bag (the hole that is used to hang the package on the shelf). Then closed the ziplock seal on both sides while leaving a small open gap in the middle for the estaz to pass threw. Now any time I need the estaz or chennile all I have to do is pick up the bag and pull on the tag of estaz sticking out, instead of having to open the bag every time..


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 27, 2007 12:01 am 
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Holding a pair of scissors to make a quick snip, and being able to put them down fast. Also always put them down in the same spot on your table, after awhile you wont need to look down to find them you can just instinctively grab them.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 27, 2007 5:11 am 
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I keep my scissors in my hand all the time, holding them in the palm of my right hand with my ring finger through one loop, so they're always available. My scissors are Miltex Iris scissors (actually a German-made surgical scissors used by eye surgeons) that has a curved tip, which also allows me to use them to tie half hitches as needed.

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Fish Friendly - Life's too short not to enjoy every minute on the river.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 27, 2007 11:15 pm 
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Most of the time I do the same thing, except if its a complicated fly then I will put them down on the table. I write left handed but just about everything else right handed. So I tie right handed and use my scissors with my left hand while tying and they wont get it the way.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2007 12:03 am 
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You can color in gills,eyes,or change the color of the entire piece in your flies that use epoxy, by simply applying a light coat of epoxy then using a permanent marker to draw on the dried epoxy to create what ever it is you want. Then apply another thin coat ontop to keep the marks from fading off or smearing.. This is a good way to make gills on your surfcandy flies, or to color the backs of shrimp or crab flies. The possibilities are endless....


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 11:11 pm 
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When getting ready to tie a new flie, pull out everything you will need for that fly and lay them out on your table. Doing this will insure that you have everything your going to need and will also help you visulize what you are about to tie. Its not a good thing when your in the middle of a fly to find out that you have run out of a particular material.. Or to realize that the colors dont match up well, thinking to yourself that you should of used a diffrent color for one of the steps.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2007 12:14 am 
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My scissors are Miltex Iris scissors (actually a German-made surgical scissors used by eye surgeons) that has a curved tip, which also allows me to use them to tie half hitches as needed.
Where can a person get Miltex Iris scissors?

Mike Wright


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2007 7:26 am 
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I got mine from a place called Hunter's Angling Supplies, now a part of Stone River Outfitters in New Hampshire. They were about $50. Here's the link to the webpage:

http://www.stoneriveroutfitters.com/toolhand.htm

You can often find them priced a lot lower on eBay, especially if you're OK with the "economy grade" version. Just search for "Miltex Iris."

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Fish Friendly - Life's too short not to enjoy every minute on the river.


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