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PostPosted: Fri Jan 12, 2007 12:02 am 
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Location: Richmond, TX
Keeping your neck or saddle feather skins in a big 1 or 2 gallon zipper style ziplock baggy can make it easier getting those feathers in and out without damaging them. You can also cut out a piece of poster board for some backing support so they wont get bent up. If you are tying inside the house and not really worried about bugs getting into them then you can cut a long slip down the bag that the feathers came in. So you can select feathers with out taking it in and out of the bag. Speaking of bugs.. you can keep some moth balls around your feathers to keep out any unwated feather destroyers.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 12, 2007 10:42 pm 
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When tying a streamer style fly with a large tail fibers you can tie them almost as you would a post for a dry fly so they will not foul on you hook when casting. Make a few wraps around the hairs making a small post and a few wraps behind them to kick them up at a slight angle. After you have tied them in pull back on the tail fibers so the slight angle straightens, giving you a nice tail. This keeps the tail fibers in a tight bundle and keeps the fly fishing well throughout the day. With out doing this the fibers would get wraped and tangled around the bend of the hook after a few casts..

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 13, 2007 3:14 am 
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Found this article that explains how to alter your old Renzetti thumbscrew jaws to allow you to tighten them more securely...
http://www.flyfisherman.com/ftb/bbrenzetti/index.html




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PostPosted: Mon Jan 15, 2007 11:42 pm 
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When tying in any material that you tie in a little long and then pull back on to make it the correct length. Always pull it at a slight upward angle while keeping a little bit of tension on the tread. This will help keep the thread from getting pushed foward as you are pulling the material to the desired length.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 16, 2007 11:02 pm 
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When triming a fly after you have tied it, always take it out of the vise. When the fly is in your hands it is much easier to line everything up and be able to turn it in all diffrent directions to make everything proportional. This is expecially true when making the final touches on a deer hair popper or a large saltwater fly.


Last edited by AlanKulcak on Wed Jan 17, 2007 8:11 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 16, 2007 11:05 pm 
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I use cheap plastic dishes to mix my epoxy on. They work really well and you dont get any colors beeding into it. When one side is used up just flip it over and use the other side...

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 16, 2007 11:55 pm 
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Location: downtown Bulverde, Texas
At Alan's request, here's a fly that caught my largest ever Guadalupe/smallie?/largie hybrid bass on the middle Guad (4 lbs)
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here's a link to the thread, with the detailed tying instructions (and a picture of the fish)
http://www.grtu.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1270

the wing and tail on that fly are tied using marabou

here's a smaller version of the same fly - Little Olive Whistler. I use as a trout streamer, crappie, panfish and takes white bass when all else fails - when spawning white bass settle into stationary pods, slowly strip this fly across the river bottom and they'll pick it up when it's sitting still. Image

the wing and tail on this fly are tied using arctic fox
the nicest thing about fox fur is that it ties in so small - for the same size tail or wing, it ties in less than a quarter of the size of marabou.

it's artic fox - comes in zonker strips - Finnish Fur Fly is the brand and Bob Marriotts sells it as "imported arctic fox zonker strips".
I highly recommend buying the good stuff because it's already combed out and every bit of it work on flies. If you buy the cheap arctic fox, more than 2/3 of the fur will comb out as garbage. So the expensive stuff ends being less expensive.

using it as zonker strips, btw, will make the best-looking bunny leaches you've ever seen.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 17, 2007 8:22 am 
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When I spin deer hair I leave the fly in the vise when cutting out the main body with a double sided razor blade. The kind you use in a old style razor, they are VERY sharp. They slice threw deer hair like a hot nife threw butter! They make all the diffrence in the world. These razors are also thin allow you to bend them. If you break the razor threw the middle you can bend it alot more to make the perfict curved shape ontop of the head of a bass deer hair popper. These razors can be found at just about any drug store or large super market. The kind you would get at a hardware store ( one sided, with a stiff backing on the end ) are to dull to cut deer hair. Rather than cutting the deer hair they push it back and leave you with a ragged edge.

Like I said before, to make your final touches always take the fly out of the vise to assure that all sides are even.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 18, 2007 1:02 pm 
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Take a small piece if foam or an old mouse pad, cut it out the same size as your hair stacker and glue it to the bottom of it. If you dont want to glue it to the stacker then just use the mouse pad or piece of foam to bang against. This will help keep down the noise level of banging the stacker against the table when you are trying to tie when others are trying to sleep!


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 18, 2007 6:52 pm 
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That's a winner! I was smacking the stacker against my palm last night for that very reason!

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 21, 2007 12:56 am 
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Here is a new crab fly that I came up with yesturday. I made the claws out of tan ultra chennile and the body out of furry foam. Very lightly melt the ends of the chennile with a lighter so they wont come unraveled. When coloring the claws and legs role the permanent marker along the chenille so the small fibers dont get pulled out. Any suggestions on any thing that I can do to improve it??

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 21, 2007 1:18 am 
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When tying small sparse parachute dry flies its best to use poly yarn, z-lon, or antron to make the post. Tie it in with figure eight wraps as you would if you were tying a spinner, then pull both sides up and make wraps around them to form the post. This will keep the body of the fly small and make it easyer to tie those flies in the 18-22 range.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 21, 2007 9:34 am 
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Alan, you'll have to give us a report on how the crab flies do. Did you add any weight to the fly?

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 21, 2007 1:03 pm 
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yes theres a 1/8 oz. (mini) lead eye on the belly that I flanttened down with some pliers to give it less bulk. Hopefully by next weekend the weather will cooperate to let me go fly fishing on the flats.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 22, 2007 10:43 pm 
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Im sure most of you already know this, always angle your scissors at an angle when triming off excess materials that you have just added to your fly. So that when you wrap thread over it the body will be tapered instead of a noticable lump.


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